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Watchet

Find out what the old Somerset words ‘clinkervells' and ‘farnticles' refer to, where St Decumans head was cut off and why Queen Caturn got the blues for baking cakes for the town!

Welcome to the Watchet hidden history Storywalk along the England Coast Path. This trail is designed to be like a skimming stone of interesting facts, myth, history and tales linked to this location. The walks are designed to be read aloud to family and friends and to embellish your experience of Watchet.

Route - from Watchet Visitor Centre beside the steam railway station, this trail journeys down to the harbour and then loops around the town finally finishing at Splash Point.

If you want to delve deeper into the local history, then please visit the museums, visitor centre, catch a walking tour, or just ask a local!

Length - less than 1 mile / 1.4km, allow a couple of hours at an amble.
Access - generally level with steps at the end (Splash Point).
This trail begins at the Visitor Centre in Watchet town. TA23 0AQ What3words address ///dark.gets.pelt 51.180803, -3.3296960
 
Chapter one

Time and Tide

Watchet has a rich history and in this walk we've tried to pack as much of it in as we can! From the early days serving as a Saxon Burgh to the present as leisure marina and visitor attraction, much has happened here over time.

The town has changed and grown through trade, storms, silt and Viking invasions. King Alfred established a mint here, trades of coal, salt, wine and wood not to mention paper and seaweed (for the glass industry) has passed through this port and been loaded on and off ship and rail. All these phases have left their mark on the town, for example the building the boat museum is currently housed in (just here) was originally designed by Isambard Kingdom Brunel as an engine shed.

Pictured - two elephants take a break from the circus to bathe in Watchet waters!
Directions - Walk towards the harbour with the railway line on your right, the next chapter will reveal by the library on the Esplanade. Note - refresh this page whenever the distance counter gets a little sleepy or use the 'help' button on the bar below. But as you amble, consider what the old Somerset dialect phrase ‘popplestone pitching’ (pronounced paup'l-stoa'un-puch'een) might refer to.
 
Chapter two

Dialect

The old Somerset dialect phrase ‘popplestone pitching' (pronounced paup'l-stoa'un-puch'een) are cobblestones!
Chapter three

Town Crier

Consider, if you were on this spot in the 1840's there would be a line of small fishermen's cottages here, many with their own jetties. Thirty years later you would be standing on the steam train turntable, a massive rotating iron bridge designed to swing steam engines around as this was the end of the newly built train line.

Back a little in time, the 1600's you'd be in the middle of the English Civil War or new year 1900 you would be witness to the gales making matchsticks of the wooden harbour and destroying the boats sheltering inside.

So to begin the tour here is Mr John Griffiths, Watchet Town crier of the 1900's
Chapter four

The Lifeboat House

The library on the corner here was once the lifeboat station which was built after the generosity of Mrs Soames of Torrington who donated £1000 for its construction which included the boat. Additionally the countess of Egremont donated the ground and later a slip was added to make it easier to move the boats into the water. The first lifeboat was named the ‘Joseph Soames' after her husband and went into service in July 1875.

Notice in the image that the lifeboat men (all who would have been local sailors themselves) are holding oars as there was no engine on the boat at this time. It wasn't until 1878 that the lifeboat was first called into action due to westerly gales wreaking havoc. The ‘Rose of Gloucester' was a mile off shore and in terrible trouble, so the lifeboat was successfully deployed and after about an hour had returned with the crew all safe and sound.

But that was not to be the end of the story that day, as on their return a further distress signal was seen, so again the crew went out in the treacherous conditions to aid the sloop ‘Olive Branch'. Again the crew were thankfully rescued leaving the ‘Olive Branch' to be swept onto rocks and smashed along the coast. Interestingly though, the ‘Rose of Gloucester' was also swept in towards these same rocks but as she had a deeper keel she grounded before reaching them and therefore was able to weather the storm. She was refloated the next day with only minor damage.

The painting by Captain Henry is still owned by the council although more recently it has gone into storage.
Directions - Walk along the Esplanade with the harbour to your right, but as you walk perhaps discuss what the old Somerset dialect word ‘clibervells’ (pronounced tling-kur-vuulz) might refer to.
 
Chapter five

Dialect

The old Somerset dialect word ‘clibervells' (pronounced tling-kur-vuulz) are icicles!
Chapter six

Queen Bee

This pilotless de Havilland airplane pictured was flown around Helwell bay in the 1940's to train gunners to be able to shoot at flying targets. The plane, although not the first radio controlled drone, was the first production model and illustrates how advanced flight technologies were at that time. Interestingly enough, the control system was able to adjust the throttle, and the rudder but little more, although the system needed a whole truck full of radio equipment to send the signal over to the plane.

It was really hard for gunners to actually shoot a fast moving target and during a demonstration by the royal navy to the King, the gunners were unable to actually hit the Queen Bee at all. After some time the exasperated officer allegedly whispered to the controller, ‘put it into a spin' which he did immediately so the plane looked at least like it had been hit!
Chapter seven

Lighthouse

The hexagonal lighthouse and signalling mast was completed in 1862 by Hennet Spink & Else of Bridgwater for Abernethy's harbour improvement and stood at the end of the wooden breakwater. It was relocated to the end of the West Pier when this replaced the wooden breakwater.

Next stop Yankee Jack, the sea shanty king of the world!
Directions - Continue along the Esplanade to the sculpture of Yankee Jack. But as you walk perhaps discuss what the old Somerset dialect word ‘farnticles’ (pronounced faarn'tikulz) might refer to, and perhaps consider whether you would want them or not!
 
Chapter eight

Dialect

The old Somerset dialect word ‘farnticles' (pronounced faarn'tikulz) refers to freckles.
Chapter nine

Yankee Jack

John Short (1839-1933) began his seafaring career in 1853 aboard the local schooner named ‘Friends', where his father was the master of the ship. Their main journeys were to and from the ports of South Wales which gave John many opportunities to sail further afield. Amongst his adventures he was involved in the American Civil War as a blockade runner where he earned the nickname ‘Yankee Jack'. He continued to sail across the oceans until the 1880s, when he retired to Watchet. Here he was appointed town crier for a time and took charge of the Fire Brigade.

Jack had a wonderful singing voice and the ability to remember songs. He impressed Cecil Sharp, who collected English folk songs. Sea shanties gave sailors the rhythms for turning the capstan and hoisting sails as they worked together. Jack's memory and his work with Sharp, and later Sir Richard Terry, meant that many sea shanties that might otherwise have been lost were recorded. Sea shanties are still sung locally today, have a look at the notice board in the town and you might be here on a Shanty Night!

The statue of Yankee Jack was unveiled on 22nd March 2006 and was commissioned by Watchet Market House Museum Society and sculpted by Alan B. Heriot.

Apparently Yankee Jack loves a selfie with the #lovewatchet

So don't be shy and post one to the Storywalks Facebook Page before carrying on with your Storywalk.
Chapter ten

Fitzroy Barometer

Further up the Esplanade in the wall you will see the daily calibrated Fitzroy Barometer. Admiral Fitzroy sailed on the HMS Beagle with Charles Darwin and was an avid proponent of weather forecasts to assist sailors. He was a pioneering meteorologist born in 1805 but the installation of Fitzroy Barometers at coastal ports around Britain didn't happen until after his death. The one here in Watchet is still in fully functioning order thanks to the Watchet Conservation Society.
Chapter eleven

The Storms

Ruth Tongue, local archivist overheard a Watchet shop keeper in conversation with a local fisherman who couldn't go out to sea nor go hunting due to the double bad luck omens of talking about rabbits and also ‘meeting a woman in a lane'.

'I can't go on the water, you bin talking of rabbits, nor can I go shootin' since I'd a-met a woman in the lane.' (circa 1948)

Watchet has naturally grown around its harbour. We know that some form of man-made structure was in place since at least the middle of the 15th century because in 1458 it was destroyed by a storm and all parishes in the diocese were exhorted by the bishop to send alms for its reconstruction. Watchet harbour is special as it is sheltered from westerlies, but easterly winds, and particularly north easterlies, can be very destructive. The harbour was pulverised by storms again in 1659 and then again 1661 but that wouldn't be the last of it.

In the early 18th century the port was owned by Sir William Wyndham. He had a better pier built, using local stone, although even that apparently afforded little protection from the storms that came. During the 19th century the port stagnated somewhat and the harbour silted up with the breakwater on the eastern side rotting away.

The Storm of 28th December 1900 left many ships damaged as this photograph from the period shows. But even today the harbour wall can suffer from collapse, as in the winter of 2019/20 a large new hole appeared in the east quay wall
Directions - Continue along to the end of the Esplanade for the next chapter. Refresh this page if the distance counter gets a little sleepy or use the 'help' button on the bar below. But as you walk perhaps discuss what the old Somerset dialect word ‘hawchemouth’ (pronounced au'chee-maew'dh) might refer to and have you ever been accused of being one?
 
Chapter twelve

Dialect

The old Somerset dialect word ‘hawchemouth' (pronounced au'chee-maew'dh) refers to a noisy eater.
Chapter thirteen

Watchet Plane Crashes in the Sea

The photograph was taken after the lifeboat rescued Mr M Salmet and his passenger whose plane crashed in the bay in the summer of 1914. There had been flying fever just three years before when the first plane ever to grace this coast flown by Benny Hucks was on display on Minehead beach. This was all part of the Daily Mail sponsored - round Britain air race with the prize of £10,000 at stake.

But Mr Salmet's plane was a two seater at 90 bhp, he was able to take a single passenger on trips and was due to fly up to Weston-super-Mare with Mr H van Trump of Taunton. The breeze was from the south-west as they flew past Blue Anchor and on towards Watchet. Large crowds had gathered to see the spectacle on the harbour but to their horror the craft suddenly dropped out of the sky and plummeted into the water disappearing in a colossal cloud of spray and steam.

The Free Press reported: ‘It sent up a huge column of spray and steam, obliterating all traces of the machine and its occupants and for a few seconds, it seemed as if both had completely disappeared. A feeling of terror gripped many of those who had witnessed what seemed to be a dive to the death…'

The lifeboat was immediately launched and the Watchet lifeboat crew searched for the men, now caught by the currents in the water. Thankfully they were rescued, although both men admitted afterwards that neither could swim!

Just up on the opposite side of the street you will see the Bell Inn, famous as it is alleged poet Samuel Taylor Coleridged sketched lines for the famous poem The Rime of the Ancient Mariner here.
Chapter fourteen

Market House Museum

Walk on a little to Market Street you can see Market House, which is today the Market House Museum and well worth a moment of your time. In 1978 it changed from being an ironmongers shop to the town museum although before that it was a methodist chapel. The image shows the opening as a church mission room in 1907.

Walk to the end and you will find a small annex under the steps which was once the town lock up.
Directions - Walk to the right of the Market House Museum along the popplestone pitching and then pavement to The London Inn. But as you walk perhaps discuss what the old Somerset dialect word ‘mopsing’ (pronounced maup’seen) might refer to.
 
Chapter fifteen

Dialect

The old Somerset dialect word ‘mopsing' (pronounced maup'seen) refers to someone who is making grimaces as they are finding the food difficult to swallow!
Chapter sixteen

Iron Ore!

Through the archway, past Sammy Hake's cottage the West Quay leads out onto the harbour with the rectangular lighthouse. Wagons of ore were emptied from a jetty straight into the holds of vessels below as shown above. The image depicts the first shipment of ore following the re-opening of the mines which was financed by a Watchet syndicate.

In 1853 an entrepreneur from Ebbw Vale, Wales secured the rights for the iron mines in the Brendon Hills and it was thought the best way to transport the ore from the mines would be by railway to Watchet and then by sea. The first working section of railway opened in 1857 but in this time a new steel process was developed and ore from other parts of the world could be shipped in easier to the smelters in Wales. In its short working life the mineral line was never truly profitable despite huge efforts and investment.
Directions - Pass back through the arch onto Market Street and continue along the pavement. Pass the car park on your right and on into West Street. The road then narrows but 7 or so houses further along you will find access to West Street Beach, formerly Cridlands beach which is our next stop. As you walk perhaps discuss what the old Somerset dialect word ‘Shrowcroped’ (pronounced treew’crupt) might refer to?
 
Chapter seventeen

Dialect

The old Somerset dialect word ‘Shrowcroped' (pronounced treew'crupt) refers to an animal which is terrified as it has a shrew crawling on its back!
Chapter eighteen

West Street Beach

Walk between the houses here to the beach access and read the next chapters overlooking the sea and the Victorian bathing pool. Watchet originally had two pools, the second was off Helwell Bay to the east of Watchet. The pool has a bung which is pulled in late spring, the water then drains and the tide is left to flush it through, the seaweed and shingle are then removed and the plug then replaced.

It is thought that the requirement for the two pools in different bays enabled men and women to bathe separately, although both were ‘observable' from the overhanging cliffs!
Chapter nineteen

Daws Castle

If we were to climb onto the cliff above the town here we would eventually arrive at Daws Castle. In 997 the Saxons attacked once again so the resident population built a hilltop fortress, just to the west of the current town centre. There may also have been defences around the present town although it was not completely fortified. Daws Castle was probably founded by King Alfred in the ninth century and had its own mint to make coins.
Chapter twenty

Caught on the Tide!

In 1643, during the English Civil War, a ship which was at sea was captured by a troop of horses, whose riders took advantage of the receding tide from Watchet Harbour.The Royalist ship had been sent to support the King's cause, with the tide low the Parliamentarian troops galloped into the sea and attacked the men on board.
Directions - Return to West Street and turn left to head back down into the town. Note the old engine sheds to your right as you walk. When opposite the car park (which will be on your left) stop at the old station building with the large clock. But as you walk perhaps discuss what the old Somerset dialect word ‘slammickin’ (pronounced slaam'ikeen) might refer to?
 
Chapter twenty-one

Dialect

The old Somerset dialect word ‘slammickin' (pronounced slaam'ikeen) means a slothernly person but in wider use in medieval times it referred to a rough cut and loose fitting gown.
Chapter twenty-two

Ancient Order of the Buffalo

The odd looking building here with the clock face was once the station building and company offices with the old good sheds close by. The mineral line ran on the easterly side of this building and although the track bed is gone today, much of it has now been converted to a cycle and walking trail called ‘The Mineral Line'. Today this old station building is subdivided into accommodation but was once the meeting house for the Ancient Order of Buffalo!

Local poets have peppered this trail with poems which can be revealed whilst walking through this link - Watchet Poetry Pin
Directions - Walk along Mill Lane to the left of The Star Inn which then tightens and weaves past the Royal British Legion. But as you walk perhaps discuss what the old Somerset dialect word ‘unketty’ (pronounced uung'kutee) might refer to.
 
Chapter twenty-three

Dialect

The old Somerset dialect word ‘unketty' (pronounced uung'kutee) means simply unkind.
Chapter twenty-four

Mills

The stream beside this path is the town leat which would have powered many mills in Watchet. Today we are aware of the uses for water to make electricity but back in the day it was the main muscle to turn grind stones and process corn as well as run looms and saws.
Chapter twenty-five

St Decuman

Sources vary as to the location of the original Minster at Watchet although one points to Daws Castle above West Street beach. Today the parish of St Decuman's is situated on the south western edge of the town, and parts of its construction date back to the 13th century.

The church is dedicated to the monk who crossed the estuary from Wales with a cow, a holy book and very little else. He established a hermitage a little up the hill behind the town but there was a terrible altercation in which the monk was decapitated. Legend has it that his head fell into the well water which had such restorative powers that he placed it back on his body where it healed!

St Decuman was reported to have then returned to Wales after this incident, but the well still retains his name. The medieval spring pictured is a little up the hill above Watchet and not on this walking trail.
Directions - Continue along Mill Lane until a foot bridge allows you to cross the leat. But as you walk perhaps discuss what the old Somerset dialect word ‘whetstone’ might refer to.
 
Chapter twenty-six

Dialect

The old Somerset dialect word ‘whetstone' refers to two things, firstly a wet stone for sharpening metal implements, but secondly a liars property or liars prize. This old saying, now out of use refers to a liar, like a wet stone in that it does not cut itself, but what it sharpens then cuts.
Chapter twenty-seven

As Idle as a Painted Ship, Upon a Painted Ocean

Samuel Taylor Coleridge (b. 1772) lived at Nether Stowey for some three years in the late 1790s. Coleridge was scraping a living giving lectures, and writing magazine articles and poetry. He walked extensively around both the Quantocks and Exmoor. It was during a walk on Exmoor in 1797, with his friends William and Dorothy Wordsworth, that he began to formulate the poem ‘The Rime of the Ancient Mariner'. In the poem an aged mariner tells a wedding guest of a sailing voyage he took. The ship on which the mariner sailed became stuck in the icy waters of the Antarctic and was freed when it followed the flight of an albatross. Despite the rest of the crew heaping praise on the bird, the mariner shoots it with a crossbow.

The ship's fortunes change, it is becalmed and the sailors are driven mad by thirst, hence the lines:

Water, water, every where,
Nor any drop to drink.

The sailors force the mariner to wear the dead albatross around his neck as a sign of repentance for killing the bird and bringing bad luck to the ship. The mariner does eventually make it back to land but he is forced to tell his tale over and again as penance for shooting the albatross.

Watchet is widely thought to be inspiration for the poem and the place from which the mariner set sail. It is also interesting to note that Coleridge made up the ‘albatross legend' as there are no records of it being in print before this publication.
Directions - Cross the foot bridge and walk along past the cottages then follow Mill Street around to the next chapter. But as you walk perhaps discuss what the old Somerset dialect word ‘bibble’ (pronounced bub'l) might refer to.
 
Chapter twenty-eight

Dialect

The old Somerset dialect word ‘bibble' (pronounced bub'l) is to drink alcohol or to tipple.
Chapter twenty-nine

The Mill Fire

Just to your right is a turbine from the Stoates flour mill, a successful and well-equipped business which included a steam engine and water turbine. Sadly it burned down in 1911 and the business moved to Bristol. More about Stoates Mill is written on the information board here.
Directions - Walk to the end of Anchor Street and refresh this page whenever the distance counter gets a little sleepy or use the 'help' button on the bar below. But as you walk perhaps discuss what the old Somerset dialect word ‘candledoubting’ (pronounced kan'l-duw'teen) might refer to.
 
Chapter thirty

Dialect

The old Somerset dialect word ‘candledoubting' (pronounced kan'l-duw'teen) is the morning or dawn light. Whereas ‘candleteeening' (pronounced kan'l-tee'neen) is when it's too dark to see without a candle.
Chapter thirty-one

The Cosy Cinema

The unusual round building in front of you was once Watchet's first cinema called ‘The Cosy', the proprietor Mr Thomas Barton Peel moved the business to new premises on the harbour Esplanade in 1938. Later this building became a collar and shirt factory then in the 1980's a nightclub with sports facilities.
Chapter thirty-two

Washford Radio Museum

On the corner of Anchor Street, and Swain Street is the Washford Radio Museum, well worth an hour or two of your time, dipping into the lost world of spoken word, valves and analogue transmissions!
Chapter thirty-three

James Date Photographer

To your left at the top of Swain Street stands Myrtle Cottage, this was the home of an early pioneer photographer called James Date. He recorded many images with different chemical techniques of the town between the 1860's to the 1870's. Some survive today which are stereoscopic and when viewed correctly are able to depict the town in three dimensions.

He also took images with the ambrotype technique which has no negative, just the final exposed plate. Some of these exposure times were very slow due to the infancy of the chemistry involved. Subjects like Watchet harbour when the tide was in would have resulted in a hazy smudge of jostling ships. But James Date knowing his craft waited for low tide when all the boats would be at rest. As the boats were still he could then capture the image in great detail.

Myrtle cottage is pictured top right in the image of the Cloutsham outing.
Directions - Either walk over the railway bridge and a little along the station platform or walk past the visitor centre and then along 'The Rope Walk' beside the track. But as you walk perhaps discuss what the old Somerset dialect word ‘cloam’ (pronounced tloa'm) might refer to?
 
Chapter thirty-four

Dialect

The old Somerset dialect word ‘cloam' (pronounced tloa'm) is both a type of earthenware and a West Country oven with a clay door. The stone oven would be fired with furze wood to bring it up to a high heat quite quickly, the ashes would be then removed and bread or a joint placed inside to cook. These recesses are common in inglenook fireplaces, often seen as a bulge from the outside and work in the same way as wood fired pizza ovens.
Chapter thirty-five

Wansborough Paper Mill

Paper manufacture begins in the 17th century in Watchet and continues to the present day - or more accurately it will do. As of the time of writing the East Quay development will house the Two Rivers paper mill which is due to relocate from Roadwater in 2021. The large Wansborough paper mill closed in 2015.

Contains Art commissioned a creative study of the paper mill, community and history, ask in the visitor centre or the new gallery about it.

Image of train at Watchet station.
Directions - Walk to the end of the platform / Rope Walk but as you journey perhaps discuss what the old Somerset dialect word ‘kaddle’ (pronounced kad'l) might refer to but have you ever been accused of this?
 
Chapter thirty-six

Dialect

The old Somerset dialect word ‘kaddle' (pronounced kad'l) is to pretend to work!
Chapter thirty-seven

Queen Caturns Cakes

Over 350 years ago, the Portuguese wife of King Charles II was so pleased with the colour of cloth provided by the people of Watchet that she distributed cider and spiced cakes to the residents to show her appreciation. Chaucer, Shakespeare and even Mary Queen of Scots along with Charles I and II mentioned Watchet Blue, but even to this day people are unsure of what the magic ingredient was. Some suggest woad, others a local type of blueberries called whortleberries, or just simply the blue lias rocks in the surrounding cliffs. But the most ostentatious theory is that the natural dye actually came from molluscs harvested from the beach.

Tyrian Purple was prized by kings throughout the ages and was made with a very tricky procedure using sea snails. Tens of thousands of these molluscs are required to make a tiny quantity of dye, but the results are obviously fit for a king.

Queen Caturn's Night is celebrated on the last Saturday of November and often coincides with the launch of the town's Christmas festivities.
Directions - The final chapter of this Storywalk is at Splash Point or Watchet Pleasure Grounds. Follow the trail with the railway line on your right. Note there are 22 steps and currently no alternative easy access route but as you walk perhaps discuss what the old Somerset dialect word ‘steehoping’ (pronounced stee'aupeen) might refer to.
 
Chapter thirty-eight

Dialect

The old Somerset dialect word ‘steehoping' (pronounced stee'aupeen) refers to men and women gossiping from house to house.
Chapter thirty-nine

JMW Turner

The artist JMW Turner, became known as the ‘painter of light' prior to the impressionist movement. He passed through Watchet in 1814 and completed a series of drawings as part of a commision of ‘Picturesque Views on the Southern Coast of England'. Turner was an English Romantic landscape artist who today is considered to be one of the finest painters in British history.
Chapter forty

The Lost Village of Easenton

Over the point here a little way into what is now sea there used to be a settlement called Easenton. In the 18th century it was an outlying street of Watchet but today it is long gone, consumed by tempests and storms of the mistress Severn!
Chapter forty-one

More Storywalk trails plus a Watchet poetry special.

There are many Storywalks trails from Minehead to Brean Down, all illustrating the hidden histories and stories along the England Coast Path. But in Watchet there is also a secret Poetry Pin Trail with poems by local authors plus a special Storywalk along the west harbour revealing hand written pages from Coleridge's journal The Gutch Book
Chapter forty-two

The End

This brings us to the end of this Storywalk although there are many others of these along the Somerset stretch of England Coast Path. Feel free to post a picture on the Storywalks Facebook of your family or group enjoying the trail.

These trails have been researched and written by C Jelley and Dr Helen Blackman and have been made possible by grant funding from the England Coast Path scheme, managed by Somerset County Council and the Rights of Way team.
Chapter forty-three

Directions

Directions - This is the end of the trail, head back down the steps to return to the visitor centre and the railway station.
Chapter forty-four

Acknowlegements

Images - in order of display

1 - Elephants Bathing in Watchet - Anon

2 - John Griffiths the Town Crier - 1900's

3 - Watchet Lifeboat - Anon

4 - The Queen Bee Launch - Anon

5 - Yankee Jack - C Jelley

6 - Watchet Esplanade - Anon

7 - 1901 Watchet Harbour Wreckage - Anon

8 - H Salmet Watchet Rescue - Alfred Vowels - Watchet Conservation Society

9 - Market House Methodist Meeting 1907 - Anon

10 - Loading Ore on West Quay - Anon

11 - Watchet, West Street - Watchet Conservation Society

12 - OS Map 1940 extraction

13 - Somerset Heritage Centre - A/DSJ/290 - image of St Decumans Well from Clement Keely collection

14 - Stoates Mill - Anon

15 - Cloutsham Outing - James Date - 1870's

16 - Watchet Station - Anon

17 - Watchet Storms - splash corner 1900's - Anon

More information fabulous with old images of Watchet on the Watchet Conservation Facebook page.
Plus Visit Watchet and Love Watchet pages.
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